Issues of Interest
National Park and OTS
Access - Most national parks open at 8:00 am. and close at either 4
or 5 pm. and cost 5-10 dollars (usually dollar currency is fine). Many
are closed on Mondays. However, Palo Verde and La Selva are official OTS
designations and were open on Monday last time I checked. Carara
National Park was also open on a Monday on my last visit.
Wildlife refuges and local
parks are a bit less predictable in their hours. You may be able to get in a park
before or after hours, but there are no hard rules about that. I've gone
into to several national parks and refuges before anyone arrived to take
my money as an admission fee, then paid on the way out. It's never been
a problem yet. When in
doubt, play it safe and only stay within the appropriate 8-4 time frame.
Check ahead if possible.
There's a more peculiar price
structure for touring La Selva OTS. Entrance fee structures can be found
here.  Concerning Canopy Tours and
Span Bridges:
Canopy tours and "zip lines" are breeding like rabbits now in Costa
Rica. In a nutshell, you should not expect to be able to bird
watch at all at anything in Costa Rica that advertises with the word
"zipline". Most advertised canopy tours are not span bridges where
one can walk at a slow pace and stand periodically for a few minutes.
Good birding span bridges do exist, however, in Costa Rica. These
bridges are designed with wildlife viewing in mind - not for access from
one place to another. There are birdwatching span bridges at
the
Heliconias Lodge near Bijuagua, "Hanging
Bridges" near Arenal, the Skywalk at Monteverde
and the
Selvatura Bridges also near Monteverde. Hanging bridges are boom
or bust in terms of birding, and I've
had both experiences at the ones I've visited in Costa Rica. Just remember, the most productive times are early in the
morning.
Money Exchange -
Currency goes from dollars to colones. We always get colones at the
hotels when we can, but we also pay with a Visa Card whenever possible
(it's generally a low exchange rate). For whatever reason, Costa Rica is
less attracted to MasterCard. More places take Visa.
I wouldn't worry much or
quibble about slightly higher exchange rates here or there. It's better
to have colones and not worry, than to be figuring out how you can save
a buck on the exchange rate while wandering around with no colones in
your pocket.
Paying with colones is not a
major problem. In a pinch, many people take dollars. Nevertheless, I
would never be out without colones. It helps to have colones for
specific situations (like tolls). If you have trouble with the
exchange, someone will usually help.
I never take traveler's
checks. Most people aren't thrilled to see them, especially in small
towns or in small stores. This, however, is a personal choice. If you do
take them, I suggest cashing them at banks or in hotels before you go
out driving.
Insects - You're in the tropics for crying out loud. Get over
it. "I found a bug in my room, I found a bug in my room!" You big baby.
If you pull this, you don't deserve to bear witness one of the greatest
shows of bio-diversity north of the equator.
As for mosquitoes, they are
generally a constant, but low-density insect throughout the tropics.
There are mosquitoes all year, but not usually in the mass quantities one might
find on the Texas coast in spring or the Rocky Mountain valleys in
mid-summer. I've gone entire days in Costa Rica without ever seeing a
mosquito. Mosquito repellent (the lightweight stuff is fine) should be
used every time you go out for extended periods, but I've seen much worse
in the temperate zones of North America. The worst mosquitoes I've found
in Costa Rica were at Palo Verde and Carara - both parks are in the
vicinity of large lagoons.
Mosquitoes, however, can be
the carrier of two diseases in Costa Rica, Malaria and Dengue Fever.
Neither of these is common ("extremely rare" is more
appropriate here), but I recommend looking over the section below on
"diseases."
Chiggers can be found in the dry
season in grassy areas. They are a troublesome itch but not much
more.
Diseases in Costa Rica - There's no critical reason yet (2011) to get any kind of
shots before going to Costa Rica. A person can get the rare Dengue fever
(flu-like symptoms) from certain types of mosquitoes in Costa Rica, but
there is no prevention for this at this time. Malaria is even less
common and isolated to specific rural areas usually on the Caribbean
side.
A list of diseases in Costa Rica from the Real Costa Rica web
site is worth a look.
Food - For the record, I've never been sick in Costa Rica
because of food or water. I've been sick in
Venezuela, Mexico, Belize and Peru, but never Costa Rica. I know two
people who have gotten ill in CR out of about 150 touristos. Take that for what
it's worth. I make no promises, but I know it's a vast improvement over
most countries - particularly the water supply.  Food is consistently good in
Costa Rica in my opinion except when they try to "Americanize" the
dishes. If you like rice and beans, I recommend
getting the traditional "casado" at the local restaurants. Casado is the
Costa Rican "blue plate special" - a meat of your choice (I get the fish
every time), rice and beans, and plantain. Sometimes it's not on the the
menu and you have to ask for it. It's the traditional Costa Rican dish,
but most tourists don't know about it. It's familiar food for the
American palate, plus it's cheap, filling, and generally quite good.
Especially with anything on the table that looks like "Lizano Sauce"
which is excellent on rice and beans.
When driving, we find grocery
stores in most cities and towns. We find an ice chest and we buy food
for lunches - crackers, cheese, and water. We always grab some corn
tortillas and bean dip. Most big grocery stores will take dollars and
convert back to colones if you wish. The last time I was in a big
grocery store, they had new cash registers that handled both currencies.
Small grocery stores will usually take dollars, but it's not a sure bet.
Tipping - Most bills in Costa
Rica related to wait-services often include a 10% gratuity in the
price of your meal. Check
your bills for this. Nevertheless, I always tip, sometimes
generously. I make sure I'm tipping at least 10% on top of the
established 10% already taken out. One place you might not know to
tip is when you park your car temporarily to bird somewhere or to
walk into a crowded restaurant. There are frequently guys standing
around in restaurant parking lots or elsewhere who do nothing but
watch your car while you're away from it. You will eventually run across these guys as they
will usually have some kind of orange or off-color jacket on. This is not really
a scam. They actually do you a service. Remember, you are likely to
be leaving valuables in your car - binoculars, passports, luggage,
etc. So not only do I tip these guys, but I tip them BEFORE I walk
to my destination. I want them to see me and my car, and I want them
to know I'll be generous if they protect my car from a break-in.
Bird guides almost always get a
good tip. I'm usually at my happiest after a day with a bird guide.
Weather can be a problem any time of
year, so I wouldn't let the summer wet season deter me if I
really wanted to bird on my own in summer. The months of May through early August are
wetter months but not dramatically wet. We're not talking monsoon
season. Usually you get afternoon or evening rains at that time. Only
September-October would be
truly difficult months for birding. Some lodges even close at that
time. December through April is
generally the dry season everywhere with February-mid April as
the driest period. Outside of these two generalities, the picture is
less clear.
The summer wet season has some definite
peculiarities. Seasonal rainfall by month is sometimes
quite different in each geographic area of Costa Rica during this
season. Many tour
companies like to say that there is a "little summer" in July when
rainfall is less than it is during the surrounding months of June and
August.
Since I frequently visit Costa Rica in July, I hear this a lot.
The tourist industry loves using this factoid. Unfortunately this is
not altogether true on the Caribbean side of the country
and in southern Costa Rica. Statistical measurements show that July
is
frequently the wettest month in
parts of the
Caribbean lowlands and on the Osa Peninsula (although most mornings
are generally
rain free). Guanacaste and some of the central mountains, on the
other hand, do show substantially less rainfall in July than the
surrounding summer months. For those areas, the "little summer"
story is accurate. In essence, I take the "little summer" story with a
grain of salt.
Avoid making plans in September and October if you're going to
central mountains or the Pacific side. Outside of that, I
wouldn't worry about it.
Rainfall on the Caribbean Coast near Limon  Rainfall in the Central Highlands  Rainfall around the Guanacaste Region Internet Access - WiFi Internet access in much of Costa Rica is generally available in most hotel lobbies or
resort restaurants. It's not blazingly fast and is not perfectly reliable every
day, but most people with laptops use it successfully and are happy it's
available. Some of it, however, is on a wireless grid system that is
prone to periodic failures - and it can fail anywhere along the grid
system.
I do know bad
weather can make Internet access slow and very difficult. Their Internet went down while I
was at Selva Verde Lodge because of inclement weather. Internet access
is something that probably changes from year-to-year, so you may need to
ask before-hand. They are improving it every year with direct lines.
Some Caribbean slope lodges,
like Rancho Naturalista and Arenal Observatory Lodge, had no broadband Internet access
as of 2009,
and using a wireless card may not be an option in these remote
locations. However, I did have cell phone access at Rancho.... something
I didn't always have around the more populated areas of Manuel Antonio.
Cell phone access is really another matter entirely - and should be
viewed much differently than Internet access even if you have a smart
phone (see paragraph below). At San Gerardo, I had to
take my phone to one particular window in the building where I routinely
got one bar's worth of call bandwidth.  Cell Phone Service - Trying to
explain cell phone service in Costa Rica hurts my brain just thinking
about it. However, the
Real Costa Rica - cell phones web site has a very good summary of
the current issues - but even then it's still confusing. All the U.S. providers like ATT
and Sprint handle international calling a little differently if your
bringing your cell phone.
For the record, a phone with texting
capability can be handy. ATT in the
United States, for example, can arrange an inexpensive international texting plan if
ATT is your provider. As iPhone users, my wife and I pay a small fee to ATT for 50 outgoing
text messages. Incoming text messages are free. I use my smart-phone email
system only when
there is WiFi access at a hotel or restaurant (tons of places have free
WiFi). I turn off "data roaming" on my phone and I turn my phone
completely off much of the time - which can cut down on random
incoming phone calls. Then I can turn my phone on once or twice a
day and get messages. If someone needs to talk to me by phone instead
of by email or text, they can email or text me first about the subject so I can
see if it's critical. International texting is
more forgiving in this system and much cheaper. But all cell phone
provider services are not
the same. Talk to your cell
phone provider about your phone\email\Internet options. And be sure
and tell close friends NOT to call you for the time you're gone.
If you really feel it would be
helpful having a local number, you can actually rent a phone card at
the San Jose airport which gives you a local Costa Rican phone
number (and prevents anyone from accidentally calling you in Costa Rica
from the U.S.). That
way you can dial inside Costa Rica at little expense. Many business
people use this option. However, this usually sort of defeats the
purpose for vacationers who want or need to stay in touch with the
states.
Perhaps the greatest solution is to
leave your phone at home and rely on email.  Crime - Yes, there is
some. Violent crime is significantly less than the U.S., but theft happens
a lot. Be
sure to lock up everything. Also, if you have a flat tire in a
metropolitan area, I would not allow any eager passers-by to help you.
This is a well known scam that includes theft. Make sure your car is
empty even if you leave it for a few minutes. Try to eat at places with
parking lot security or where you can see your car (even a lot of rural
eating places now have at least some security). Be vigilant about your
belongings. I mean how complicated is this? Isn't everything you take
with you on a trip important?
Land Rush in Guanacaste, Nicoya, and
the Central Pacific Region
- The opening of the Liberia Airport to international travel has created
something of a land rush in northern Guanacaste and some central Pacific
communities. While dwellings seem to
be going up exponentially every year, the infrastructure of roads,
power, and services has also improved. While I cringe at the
development, most all the parks mentioned here have been safely tucked
away and protected for well over two decades and do not seem to be at
risk yet. It's a bit of a mixed blessing, but unlike the U.S., Costa
Rica is well aware that their natural resources are a big asset. I'm
hoping their government has the good sense to maintain some equilibrium
while they go through this period of growth. Costa Ricans, like
Americans, argue regional politics all the time, and the tourist
industry is a bigger lobbying force in Costa Rica than in many other
countries.  Unlike these tourist areas, there are
also growing American and European communities in the central
highlands. These communities are frequently made of retirees and
have little impact (other than adding diversity) to the natural
surroundings within Costa Rica in my humble opinion.
Traveling Across the Gulf
Of Nicoya - If you stay near Samara or anywhere in central or south
Nicoya Peninsula, you might consider the bridge across the Gulf of
Nicoya (Hwy 18) in order to get to the Pan American Highway (rather than
driving north and then back down south on the Pan American Highway). It
will save you some time for birding places like Carara NP. I don't
recommend the car ferry in southern Nicoya. It simply takes too long
unless you catch it just at the right time.
Living There - Finally, there is one
web site for Americans who are planning to live in Costa Rica. While you
are probably not planning to do that, let me just go on record as saying
that this is the most complete website on Costa Rica for the traveler.
This is everything from cell phones, to driving, to retiring. If you
want to know everything about Costa Rica for the traveler.... this is
the site.
The Real Costa Rica
For birders, I also recommend the "Costa
Rica Living and Birding" blog. This is frequently updated, and is good bird
reading.
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